City Trip: Volendam – Marken – Zaanstad

Last Saturday I went on a day trip to three traditional Holland towns: Volendam, Marken and Zaanstad.You can find the pictures here.

The first stop was Volendam. It is in the northern part of Holland, about 1 hour from Leiden by bus. It is a quaint fishing village with lovely old architecture. The town is small enough to see most of it in an hour of walking. The town backs onto a water front with a perfectly picturesque fishing habour. My tour group had lunch in town (sandwiches with milk) and we also took a large group picture in full traditional dutch dress.The town is a popular tourist destination, and had a higher density of souvenir shops than any other town I had seen.

From Volendam we took a tour boat to the small island of Marken. Marken is an even smaller and more traditional town than Volendam, stock full with sheep, churches and plenty of pleasant looking old fashioned buildings … and of course more souvenir shops. Pleasant shopping.

From Marken we took a bus to Zaanstad, and were dropped off at a very pretty tourist trap called Zaanse Schans. Lots of “traditional” Dutch novelties, like windmills, tulips and wooden shoes. Naturally, lots more shopping, though much more expensive than the shopping in Volendam and Marken. It was nice to see the windmills, but if you can get your windmill fix elsewhere, then Zaanse Schans essentially reduces to a town of overpriced souvenirs.

Here are some highlights:

This is on the Volendam water cost, behind me is the fishing harbour.

IMG_0920

Volendam fishing side

IMG_0913

Volendam buildings

IMG_0928

Marken sheep. Baaaaawwww. They are cute.

IMG_0971

Bridge in Marken. They are all named. It is a cute town.

IMG_0974

Buildings in Marken. They are dedicated to maintaining the old fashioned image.

IMG_0980

This is me and Marken is in the background.

IMG_0991

A windmill at Zaanse Schans.

IMG_1006

Me in a wooden shoe at Zaanse Schans.

IMG_1039

 

Relief of Leiden – 3rd October

In 1574, on the evening of October 2nd to the morning of October 3rd, the people of a Dutch city called Leiden were liberated from the devastating invasion of the Spanish. This event is called the “Relief of Leiden”, and it has been celebrated by the people of Leiden every year since that day. This is some background to the event:

Under the new leadership of King Phillip II, a devout Roman Catholic, the Spanish king undertook a massive campaign to cleanse the empire (which included the Netherlands) of all non-Catholics, along with imposing many unpopular restrictions. The first signs of rebellion were in the form of protests and petitions; though with the leadership of William of Orange, and the increasing vocal support for resistance by many dutch towns (Leiden, Alkmaar, Haarlem and Naarden) the Spanish reaction was devastating. The Spanish Duke of Alva and his first officer Valdez lead a large army to crush the rebellious towns.

The city of Leiden underwent two sieges. The first, in 1573, was a frustrating for the Spanish invaders. The city was well fortified, and had stocked well for an attack. The Spanish gave up the siege in March 1574.

However, less than two months later, the Spanish surprised the town with another attack, and though well fortified, the town had failed to bring enough supplies into the city walls to sustain the attack. During the course of the attack, thousands of villagers died or were dying of starvation within the town, and morale was extremely low.

In an iconic display, immortalized in many paintings, then Mayor Van der Werff addressed the starving people and offered them his arm to eat. Though there was much suffering in the town, it would be a far worse fate to endure the dishonour of surrender, and so long as he was alive (so he said) they would not surrender. My favourite rendition of this moment can be found here.

Meanwhile, William of Orange had decided to pierce the dikes to drown out the Spanish, quoting “Better a drowned land than a lost land”. However, this strategy did not have the desired result, as the water was slow to rise and the wind often remained in the wrong direction.

On the night of Oct 2nd, a weakened wall of the city of Leiden collapsed. The Spanish mistook the sound for an attack and the failure of the dikes, and quickly fled, fearing the flood.

Two immortalized events happened the morning of October 3rd. With the slowly rising water that resulted from William of Orange’s breaking of the dikes, a group of ‘Geuzen’ (sea beggars) was able to sail relatively close to the city. They arrived near the city on October 3rd, and their arrival is called “The Relief of Leiden” or “Leiden Ontzet” – and the Geuzen “relieved” the city by feeding the starving villagers herring and white bread.

Also on that morning, a young boy, Cornelis Joppensz, in disbelief that the Spanish had fled, sneaked into the trenches where they were stationed. In the trenches he found a stew, still on the fire and cooking, of potatoe’s, carrots and onions. This stew was later called ‘hutspot’.

And so, every year on October 2nd and 3rd, the town celebrates the Relief of Leiden. It is traditional to eat herring and white bread, and hutspot during this event, in remembrance of the events on that day. Since 1886, the city founded the October 3rd Association, whose council bears the majority of the responsibility for organizing the event. The modern realization of the event is impressive in its grandeur, boasting a large Luna Park (Midway, or Carnival), the cities largest market, two parades and various other events including speeches, singing, award ceremonies, and much more.

I have uploaded pictures and videos for Oct 2nd and Oct 3rd, but here are some of the highlights:

Town Hall SpeechWe followed that marching band to three different events around town. There would be a speech and singing at almost all of them. The city of Leiden has a lot of anthems.

IMG_0680

This is me eating the traditional herring and white bread. No, it was not good. Yes, I really did eat it.

IMG_0697

This is me with one of the 3 October Association members. They were all dressed in suits like this with top hats. It is a prestigious position in the city.

IMG_0699

These are some street performers. They put on a play about the Spanish invasion. It was in dutch – though I couldn’t understand it, I thought it was very well done. It would have been awesome in English. :P

IMG_0718

These are some of the highlights from the main parade on Oct 3rd. The parade theme was “The American Dream”

IMG_0796

IMG_0833

The Marching Bands were really top notch. Absolutely excellent. There were more than a few of them too.

IMG_0851

IMG_0837

These are some highlights from the Luna Park (Midway). The rides were unbelievable. All of them were very intense, no wimpy riders at this park. You can see a video of some of the rides here.

IMG_0544

The town was packed. Really literally packed. At some points, I couldn’t move and I was shoulder to shoulder sandwiched by people. Not for the claustrophobic.

IMG_0557

This was a pretty cool haunted house. The tree on the right moved it’s arms, eyes and mouth and talked. The guy on the left climbed up and down the rope. It is a “live” haunted house – it comes highly recommended, though I did not go in.

IMG_0634

IMG_0622

This was a snack I had at the Luna Park. It is a waffle covered in powdered sugar, then dolloped with cherry pie filling in the middle, and polished with yellow creme around the sides. I like to think I can handle my sugar, but I only got through half of this.

IMG_0626

tp_14x

 

Something big is coming…

Today is Oct 2nd, and the city of Leiden is quickly gearing up for what is the largest party of the year. On Oct 3rd the city of Leiden celebrates its liberation from the Spanish. The whole story via wiki can be found here.

The town is already setting up; lots of booths, rides, and kegs of beer are cracking open and the town is packed with people. I will give a complete summary with lots of pictures after the main event tomorrow. Walking around the city today I am guilty of severely underestimating the grandeur of this event. This party is going to be HUGE!

Stay tuned!

tp_move1